![]() Fishers turn up more often, so prices aren't nearly as high. Hay-Buddens are widely known about, they bring 4 figures. were sold to every family farm over the last 200 years.Ĭombine scarcity and made by a real anvil maker, as your list, and price really goes up: only about six ~10 lb. anvil isn't that rare, although more 75 to 150 lb. My observation is that although small anvils appeal to some collectors, how many have turned up, scarcity, is even more important in determining value. There you have it, views vary, each valid. A 300# anvil is not measurably "better" than a 120# anvil that is very solidly mounted, so. They are a bear to move around the shop, and unless I can drive to pick it up, the costs of having it shipped can really drive the price up. This isn't to say that I would walk away from a 300# anvil, but that I would take all the factors into consideration. If it goes north of 150#, the value starts diminishing because they are harder to move and would require serious shipping costs. Why buy a 20# london-pattern anvil when I can buy a 20# sledge hammer that will work perfectly as a post anvil?Īnvils north of the 50# mark are serviceable anvils that can be used for general beginner smithing of all types, and they are, again to me, more valuable. I might buy one if it was as-new or really cheap, but I'm not on the look out for something in that size range because you're getting into the territory of any large chunk of steel that can also be used as an anvil. And larger anvil ratchet loppers for removing dead wood.I'd say that anything under 50# is "small" and really not worth my time. Perhaps have a pair of small bypass snippers for the cut flower garden. ![]() Move up to a larger cutting tool for those bigger branches, such as bypass loppers, a small branch saw (my favorite), a bow saw, or when you finally realize that "Life is too short to put up with a problem plant", a good quality chain saw. If those bypass pruners are advertised as cutting through one-inch branches, don't exceed that limit. Using too much force to work the blade through the wood could damage the entire unit. Every gardener should own a pair of bypass pruners.īut a word of warning: don't force cut a branch with bypass pruners that were not meant to cut a larger branch. Steve Zien, owner of the Citrus Heights-based organic landscape consulting business, Living Resources, leaves no doubt to his preference: "I would never use anvil pruners! Never ever, unless something needed to be pruned right then and there, and it was the only tool I had beside my teeth."īottom line: Bypass pruners are much more versatile than anvil pruners. The bypass type cuts cleaner through the softer material without causing much damage." Loren Oki, Landscape Horticulture Specialist with UC Cooperative Extension in Davis, also has limited use for anvils: "I was taught that bypass pruners were used on live material, whereas the anvil types were better for dead wood. "Anvils are for deadheading annuals, and that's about it." Pete Strasser is a former plant pathologist with a former Sacramento nursery, Capital Nursery. I suggest using bypass pruners for up to three quarters of an inch-thick branches, loppers for up to one inch thickness and a hand saw for anything larger." "I tend to see too many wounded branches, particularly when the bark is soft. "I don't use and usually do not recommend anvil pruners," says Luanne Leineke, formerly the Community Shade Coordinator for the Sacramento Tree Foundation. Also, they crush the bark, which bypass pruners can do also, but you can turn the shears so the blade is closer to the collar and make a clean cut." ![]() "When they begin to wear, they often don't cut all the way through. "I never use anvil pruners because you often can't cut close enough to the branch collar without leaving somewhat of a stub," said Ingels. The late Sacramento County Farm Advisor, Chuck Ingels, preferred bypass pruners.
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